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Bar Julius, hotel bars

Why hotel bars are finally having their moment in Australia

by Molly Nicholas

Hotel bars have long held a special place in hospitality, offering a unique experience that makes them a destination in their own right. Although this culture has thrived overseas for decades, Australia has been slower to embrace the concept, but that is quickly changing.

As hotel bars across the country carve out a stronger identity, and a clear vision of what the modern hotel bar can be, they are quickly defining themselves as serious players in Australia’s hospitality scene.

At the forefront of this resurgence is Bar Tilda. Spearheaded by Jason Williams, Director of House Made Hospitality, Bar Tilda opened its doors in October last year, forming part of a four-venue precinct at Sofitel Sydney Wentworth and leveraging Jason’s experience launching world-class bars for world-class hotels.

He says Australian drinkers are quickly becoming drawn to the unique nature of the experience.

“A great bar is a little pocket of escapism and hotel bars really encapsulate that – they have a worldly sense of reverence, a sense of occasion and a feeling of confidence. You may be drinking a Martini in a hotel bar in Sydney, but you could be in Tokyo. That is a unique feeling that Australian drinkers are now discovering,” he told Bars and Clubs.

James Bradey, Co-owner and Founder of Liquid & Larder, which unveiled The Eve Hotel’s boutique lobby bar Bar Julius earlier this year, added: “There is an energy about a great hotel, and the bar is its beating heart.”

Redefining the hotel bar experience

As Australian drinkers find a growing appreciation for hotel bars, international bar consultant Grant Collins sees an opportunity for Australian operators to position themselves as more than convenient pit-stops.

“I’m originally from London and hotel bars have long been setting the standards of sophistication and quality there. Dukes Bar and The American Bar at the Savoy are two great examples that have stood the test of time,” he stated.

Having worked with the Hilton Sydney on the relaunch of Zeta Bar, one of Grant’s key considerations was curating a cocktail list that would resonate with travellers and locals alike. Over the years, Zeta Bar’s cocktail menus have showcased a global influence, and despite the shifting demographic of hotel bar drinkers, the latest iteration maintains its connection to travel.

“[At Zeta Bar] the aim is to bring back some of the old school hotel bar charm and elegance, with aspects like our bespoke Martini trolley and slick new staff uniforms, yet still ensuring we’re approachable enough for the after-work drinks crowds with a cracking ‘sunset hour’ offer.

“Stage one of the Zeta list is a fun and playful update that features internationally influenced drinks and a few twisted classics. With inspiration from destinations like the Caribbean, Italy, UK, USA, Japan and Mexico as well as a feast of forgotten classics from the early days of Zeta.”

James agrees that a big part of the hotel bar resurgence comes down to the food and beverage offering.

“[Hotel bars] are taking a more bespoke, creative approach to their offerings, moving away from the traditional, cost-effective, cookie-cutter model that treats food and beverage as a mere add-on. Instead, food and beverage is becoming a primary driver of travel itself,” he explains.

Is the Martini central to a good hotel bar experience?

Explaining how he approached the beverage program at Bar Julius, Liquid & Larder’s Group Bars Manager, Ben Ingall, says: “Captivatingly disarming was the phrase I kept returning to when designing the menu for Bar Julius.

“As the hotel lobby bar, Bar Julius needed to cater not only to the local community but also to an international clientele. The drinks needed to be recognisable on paper to disarm the guest but then completely subvert their expectations in the glass. The Crystal Mimosa is a great example of this approach.”

Printed on the menu with the tagline “the world’s best Mimosa”, the Crystal Mimosa combines Ketel One Vodka, navel orange, Usher Tinkler Prosecco, Muyu Chinotto Nero and vanilla – a sophisticated take on a well-recognised cocktail.

Striking a similar tone, Jason says hotel bars must get the classics right, and in particular, the Martini.

Using Archie Rose spirits, Bar Tilda offers a tableside Martini trolley experience.

“There are not many cocktail experiences better than an ice cold Martini at a beautiful hotel bar catching up with a friend or contemplating the day that’s gone. Hotel bars are a cradle for the Martini experience.

“These days though, guests need more creativity and vibrancy with the drinks offering. The cocktail list should be a storytelling device, and hotels have infinite stories to tell, so I believe the cocktails should represent the building, the city, or a time and place. And that’s reflected through ingredients, stories, presentations and sensations,” Jason explains.

Collaboration fosters community

From bar takeovers to pop-up events, collaboration is a powerful tool in hospitality, presenting an opportunity to build a community and stay relevant in a crowded market, and hotel bars are perfectly positioned to tap into this trend.

At Songbird Bar, located within The Ritz-Carlton in Perth, Marco Barsotti, Bar and Restaurant Manager, embraced this trend with the launch of Perth Cocktail Weekend last year, showcasing the city’s top cocktail bars and bringing in global bartending talent.

“In the last two years we tried to push our event focus, the best example is the Perth Cocktail Weekend organised last year by us, but also smaller events in collaboration with local brands like Archie Rose and Four Pillars.

“Regardless of the brands that you use, doing events with other bartenders and brands will help you to bring in more people from the city and give you more visibility in the hospitality sector,” Marco told Bars and Clubs.

Samson Li, Director of Food & Beverage at Capella, sees collaboration as an effective tool to bridge the gap between the hotel world and Australia’s broader hospitality scene.

“Across the globe, collaboration is emerging as a key trend in the hospitality industry. At Capella Sydney, we believe in the art of collaboration – the joining of two exceptional brands to create something truly memorable.

“This philosophy is exemplified by our McRae Bar partnership with the renowned Maybe Sammy team. Known globally for their award-winning cocktails, bubbles, and unparalleled creativity, Maybe Sammy brings a level of craftsmanship and innovation that elevates any cocktail experience,” Samson stated.

The Maybe Sammy x McRae Bar Pineapple Negroni is a perfect example of a crossover between a hotel bar and Sydney’s wider bar scene.

In this collaboration, McRae Bar has joined forces with Claudio Bedini, Head of Mixology at Maybe Sammy Cocktails, to craft the Pineapple Negroni. Made using offcuts of pineapple sourced from Capella’s restaurant Brasserie 1930, the cocktail combines the world-class luxury of Maybe Sammy cocktails with sustainable practices.

Changing the way Australians drink

As hotel bars in Australia evolve, there’s a growing opportunity to shift their reputation from a convenience for travellers to a true destination for locals and visitors alike, and that relies on winning over Australian drinkers.

“As always, it’s about the hospitality,” says Jason.

“There is not a better combination than genuine, pre-emptive affable Australian-style hospitality, well-crafted cocktails in a beautiful special hotel bar – it’s a great combo. So, as long as the bartender or waiter doesn’t make it too stiff, the other tangible luxury elements will be embraced by the guest. And, of course charge normal prices – not London hotel bar prices.”

Across the industry there’s a sense that hotel bars have already begun to move beyond old expectations, and the venues leading this change are those creating distinct identities.

“I think hotel bars can stereotypically present as prestigious and imposing, particularly when it comes to service style. Bar Julius isn’t that. It still has fantastic elements of grandeur, like the Barrisol ceiling, and many of the drinks have deep roots in the classic cocktail repertoire, but the service is friendly and welcoming – like your favourite neighbourhood bar should be,” Ben conluded.

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